June 9th Tuesday

From: Port Neville     To: West Thurlow Island
Start time: 0600        Finish time: 1530      Distance: 40 km
Tide: Port Neville
0137     2.1
0719     4.0
1352     1.2
2048     4.3

Current: Whirlpool Rapids
Turns   Max     kts
0357    0837   +3.4
1000    1444   -3.9
1549    2050   +4.1
2219

     Awake at 4:30 a.m. The wind has died down from last night and it looks like it was blowing about 20 knots out in the strait. A quick breakfast and I’m off with my morning cup of instant coffee to go. I was in the water by 6:00 and paddled out to have a closer look. Approaching the dreaded point it looked much better then it did yesterday. The waves were smaller now and although the water was still a little confused, the fully loaded boat felt stable. Once around I could duck behind the point and into protected water again. Only a couple more points to get around before I reached Sunderland Channel .  Again I was heavily relaying on my low brace to keep me stable in some of the bigger waves. In the deeper troughs my 18 foot kayak wouldn’t fit between them and was forced side ways. I’d lean into the wave bracing to keep stable and under control. I had one large wave sneak up from behind. It picked me up and was about to shoot me forward. My bow began to pearl into the trough, quickly I leaned back and started paddling in reverse with all I had and the wave passed under me whoa. I reach the relatively calmer waters of Blenkinsop Bay. Mungo Martin said there was once a Salish site here called Kikum, but Franz Boas lists this site as a Kwakiutl place of origin called Xeq!amin. It was most likely under the control of the Matilpi. (Galois)
     I needed to get round one more point before entering Sunderland Channel. In Sunderland Channel is McLeod Bay, a tiny bay with good protection from the weather and a good place to camp. I stopped here for a breather. Ron said there was a hermit living here. I didn’t see anyone, although I didn't get out of the boat to look for him either.
     In Sunderland Channel I made a B line straight down and across the channel to the NE corner of Hardwicke Island. I was making great time down wind, but I missed slack ebb at Whirlpool Rapids by about an hour.  

Whirlpool Rapids ahead  

Still I managed to paddle right through against the current without much effort.  Taking a break at the small bay on the other side of the rapids I checked out a campsite here but it didn’t look too promising.
     Wellbore Channel had been protected from the weather but once I reached Chancellor Channel I was back in 25 knots again.  I kept the wind to my back and headed to the farthest point of land I could see on the opposite side of the channel, I knew there was a camp there. At 3:30 I landed on West Thurlow Island at a nice protected spot with a creek and a great camping site.

West Thurlow Island 

Looking up Loughborough Inlet

Bear safe 

From the beach I could see straight up Loughborough Inlet. After setting up camp and going for a short walk the adrenalin I had been running on all day gave out and I was feeling mentally and physically drained. I had paddled for nine hours, it was the longest distance I had ever paddled in a single day. My body felt like it was still moving with the motion of the waves and it was making me feel a little nauseous.
     The forecast for tomorrow was not looking good. I decided I would stay here tomorrow and rest unless the weather made a dramatic change. After dinner I baked some bannock in the fire for tomorrow’s lunch and was off to bed around 8:30 pm.